Monday 15 July 2013

Hydor products now available at Holiday Aquatics

Hydor products now available at Holiday Aquatics

We have some great news in that we are now able to offer Hydor products to all our customers.

Another fantastic range of products at low prices.
We have all the range of Circulation pumps, powerheads, centrifugal pumps, Wavemaker, Protein skimmers, calcium reactors and spares.

Like the Hydor Koralia Evolution range, that offers one of the lowest power consumption of any pump on the market and are equipped with an electronic start up system, new technology rotors and propellers.

Hydor is one of the few companys that offer great quality in design, reliable and well built products at such a competitive price. If you've not tried any of Hydor's range then we recommend you do to see for yourself

You can check our full range at www.holidayaquatics.com

If you're looking for anything specific and you can't see it listed on our site then please contact us and we will be more than happy to source for you.

Holiday Aquatics
 


Saturday 22 June 2013

Koi Pond Filters and how they work

Koi Pond Filters - Just how do Koi Fish-pond Filters Do the job?

To be able to keep koi fish or just about any pond or maybe aquarium often people query how a Koi Pond Filter performs and what would it actually do.

A number of the commercially available filter systems designed for compact ponds look like box with compartments along with some foam plus a bag of what look like hair curlers added.

Usually what is in the innovative hobbyists system is clear pond water so they can start to see the bottom of the pond and all the fish and plants and so on and believing that a fish-pond filter is really a kind of sieve which removes all the obvious waste and also dirt suspended in the fish-pond water. Although the fact is any pond, whilst normally having some form of mechanical purification somewhere at the same time, is actually a existing micro bacterias that convert noxious waste which can be in the water coming from fish waste for example.





The explanation for having a filtration system on a koi pond should be to create a clean up, pollutant free surroundings for its residents to live. The belief that your normal water may be crystal clear does not mean the pond water is suitable for your Koi

There are two typical elements of koi fish pond filters which is the mechanical process accompanied by the organic process.

Mechanical Filtration

Mechanized filtration removes the shades waste prior to a water getting into the chemical or biological steps. This is important because solids could potentially cause blockages additionally along the filtering method, heavy waste can cause poor normal water quality, which in turn will cause koi health problems, condition and demise.
To a less or larger degree, most filter media use physical filtration, the greater delicate a filter channel, the better your mechanical filtering.
The more fine the marketing is, the better the risk of blockage. Many pond filters use a settlement chamber, say for example a vortex as the very first stage on the filtration procedure. A vortex is really a round container in which the pond water is swirled. This result sucks your heavy waste parts on the bottom on the chamber wherever it can be flushed away. This could certainly save time in cleaning the filter out as much less solid waste is entering the latter phases of the filtering.

The latter part of the filter will contain brushes, Media for bacteria to grow and sponges to polish off the water before entering into the main pond.

The more strong waste you could remove within the first period of the filtering system process the more efficient the filter is going to be as the final parts of the filter system will remain cleaner which results in less maintenance.

As previously mentioned, the natural process can be 'alive' and potentially quite sensitive so never strip down your filter for a clean and always wash sponges etc in old pond water rather than tap water that way your not killing the beneficial bacteria.

Theres lots of Koi pond filters out on the market and we would advise to always invest that little bit extra in the filter and the pond pump that way they will serve you well for a number years.

Holiday Aquatics
www.holidayaquatics.com

Wednesday 5 June 2013

Evolution Aqua Sequence Pumps

Evolution Aqua Sequence Koi Pond Pumps

If your looking for a high quality low cost running Koi pond pump then look no further than the Evolution Aqua Sequence pond pumps. These Pumps are robust and very well made.

Looking at most other sequence pumps on the market and for the price the EA sequence pump comes ontop for us, the pump even pay for itself !

It's that efficent compared to other pumps the money you save on running these pumps pay for themselves and with their smooth running and robust quality parts these pond pumps are built to last.

For example: "A Sequence 12000s that uses 82 watts will cost you on average and approximately £79 per year. A pump that is rated the same at 12,000 litres per hour and uses 250 watts, will cost you £241 per year! A pump that uses 1,000 watts, will cost you £960 per year. That's why we call it "the pump that pays for itself"!! "

Available from Holiday Aquatics in the following sizes :

Sequence 8000S8,000 lph1,760 gph72-83 watt2" in1.5" out
Sequence 10000S10,000 lph2,200 gph72-87 watt2" in1.5" out
Sequence 12000S12,000 lph2,600 gph72-92 watt2" in1.5" out
Sequence 15000S15,000 lph3,300 gph146-218 watt1.5" in1.5" out
Sequence 18000S18,000 lph3,960 gph152-262 watt1.5" in1.5" out
Strainer (8000S-12000S)2" in2" out
Strainer (15000S-18000S)2" in1.5" out

Further information can also be found at Evolution Aqua

Holiday Aquatics

Wednesday 29 May 2013

Internal and External Aquarium filters

Internal and External Aquarium filters


In the 20 years that I have been involved in keeping aquariums, filtration ideas have only very recently changed. The common perception was filtration must be slow, maybe twice the turnover of the tank water per hour which of course relates to Tropical Aquariums and Marine Aquariums is more around a bigger turnover again to replicate the Ocean.

The thinking behind slow turnover for tropical aquariums was that in the wild, water movement was relatively slow and as we are trying to replicate this in an aquarium, turnover in the tank must also be slow and consistent. Only in the last few years has this changed but it must be stressed that the new thinking comes from the high tech approach to planted aquariums where they use CO2 in order to push plant growth forward rapidly.
So what should your turnover be and what sort of filtration should be used? With beginners to the tropical hobby, the best option is to buy the largest filter you can afford (but not so large it looks out of place). Bigger filters are able to clean your water better, they require less maintenance and you can choose which media you decide to place in them, but tank size must be a consideration. Filter flow rate should be a minimum of twice the turnover for a non CO2 tank. So if your tank is 100L, your filter must turnover a minimum of 200L per hour, but preferably 400L per hour. In a high tech planted aquarium you need to consider a filter that can turn over 10 times its volume. So using the 100L aquarium example, the type of filter you need to consider is one that turns over 1000L per hour – as you can imagine this will limit your choice and lead you towards the largest and latest internal or external aquarium filters.
There are two main types of filters available to hobbyists: Internal and External. Internal filters are inexpensive, simple and effective but are generally geared towards smaller aquariums. When maintaining them they can be a little messy when you remove them from your tank for cleaning.  Internal filters sit on the inside of your aquarium and come in a variety of different sizes. They range from the very small (max tank size 20L) up to versions suitable for 200L tanks. However they do take up space in any tank, often hold little media (just sponges on smaller types) and can be a little unsightly. Prices range from £10 and up so can be great if you’re looking for a cheaper start up the try a Superfish range of filters or go for a little more advanced with an  Interpet Internal Filter or a Tetra Internal Filter range. In recent months manufacturers are investing more technology into these filters, some have built in heaters and others are able to store larger amounts of media which helps to improve water quality, but unfortunately this also means they become bigger which means less aquarium space.
Externals filters are what I recommend – the less equipment that is visible in your tank the better (the focus then remains on your aquascape). External filters are simple to set up, easy to maintain and you can run an external on most tanks regardless of their size – modern brands have flow adjusters so you can set the output speed to whatever you want. These filters are more expensive than internal filters but well worth it.  The most popular brand of external filters are Tetra. They have been the market leader for over 20 years, are reliable and have great functions. Some also have built in heaters which is ideal for keeping more equipment out of the tank. The typical route for newcomers to this hobby is to start with an internal filter and then move onto an external filter.

If you just think the bigger the tank more space you have then an external filter is a must have. If Space is tight and the aquarium is small then you can get away with an Internal filter. This is just a guide and i have seen many larger tanks with internal filters that have had great success.

Which ever filter you choose make sure its suitable for your requirements and always think ahead which will save you buying a bigger filter at a later date.

Holiday Aquatics
www.holidayaquatics.com

Sunday 26 May 2013

Pond Pump size Calculator

Pond Pump Flow Calculator


Building a pond or maybe upgrading, not sure what pump will do the job ? then use our Pond Pump Calculator to give you a guide on pump size needed :http://www.holidayaquatics.com/pond-pump-calculator-25-w.asp


Holiday Aquatics 
www.holidayaquatics.com
 

Monday 20 May 2013

Aquarium and Pond Volume Calculator

Aquarium and Pond Volume Calculator

Are you thinking of getting a new aquarium pump or a new aquarium filter or maybe you have just got a disease or blanket weed outbreak in your Koi pond but not sure what volume your aquarium or Pond holds ?

Then you need a water volume calculater, to calculate how much water your aquarium or pond holds, that way you know you are purchasing the correct equipment and not wasting your money or dosing the correct level of chemicals so your not overdosing or underdosing.

Our pond and Aquarium volume calculator works out the volume in gallons and Litres and you can enter dimensions in either Metres or Feet and Inches.

Times when you might need it :

Building a Koi pond
Buying a Koi Pond Filter, UV Clarifier, Air Pump and Pump
Dosing your Pond for a disease outbreak
Working out how much fish you can hold
Buying a New Aquarium
First time purchase of an Aquarium filter and pump
Dosing your aquarium with disease control or if you have a Marine tank how much Vodka or phytoplankton to add

Always take in consideration and rockwork, substrate etc before dosing your aquarium or pond.

So why not try our Pond and Aquarium volume calculator

Holiday Aquatics
www.holidayaquatics.com

Wednesday 8 May 2013

Aquarium Chillers

Aquarium Chillers why you should consider this valuable kit

Aquarium Chillers where something that the normal household hobbyist longed for but prices pushed these out of the everyday market. It's great now to see that prices are dropping and thye are in reach for us all, but why buy an aquarium chiller ?

An aquarium chiller becomes a must when the ambient room temperature is higher than the desired water temperature or if your lights and pumps are making the water temperature rise an fall in extremes as it can be deadly for the creatures inside the tank, especially Marine Corals and invertabrates.

The aquarium chillers that are known for being quiet and made using high compact design only should be bought for the reason that these are highly beneficial and give higher ROI. Advanced aquarium chillers tend to have LED display that give precise temperature control which can be considered highly beneficial vis-à-vis operation so keeps the temperature constant no matter what heat is thrown at the aquarium.



An Aquarium chiller is a must buy for any serious hobbyist who is thinking on spending lots of money on high value corals as excessive heat fluctuation will push your coral to the brink of it's life.

Holiday Aquatics
www.holidayaquatics.com

Thursday 2 May 2013

Evolution Aqua Nexus Eazy now available at Holiday Aquatics

Evolution Aqua Nexus Eazy Koi Pond Filters now available at Holiday Aquatics

The Nexus Eazy Koi pond filter is one of the best and well known Koi pond filters on the market today. Through extensive design Evolution Aqua have come up with an efficient filteration system thats also easy to clean.

EA Nexus Eazy Filter Kits

Evolution Aqua Nexus Eazy Koi Pond Filter Kits 210 and 310
Where happy to announce that we now have available the 210 and the 310 models in a filter Kit system saving you huge amounts of Money. Our kits comprise of Pond Pump, UV Filter, Pond Air Pump and the Evolution aqua Eazy Filter Lid.

Here's a run down of what this amazing filter has to offer :

  •   Unbeatable water quality and clarity
  •   Zero maintenance within the Biological stage
  •   Low running costs
  •   Easy to install - 'plug and play'
  •   Small footprint
  •   Unparalleled value for money
  •   A 'pleasure' to clean
  •   Works pump or gravity fed
  •   No need for a high pressure and costly
  •      circulating pump
  •   Uses scientifically proven Kaldnes Moving
  •      Bed technology
  •   Mechanical and biological stage in one unit
  •   Biological capacity that can grow with
  •      your fish, just add more kaldnes media
  •   Open mechanical filter allowing visual  inspection that media is 100% clean after      maintenance
  •   Now includes pump fed
  •      overflow/Gravity fed bypass system
  •   New Improved Eazy
  •   Clear Lid for Eazy Section
  •   New improved air system
Evolution Aqua Eazy Filter Dimensions : http://evolutionaqua.com/acatalog/nexus-size.pdf

Evolution Aqua Nexus Koi pond filter detail


If you require further fittings etc on this item then don't hesitate to contact us or for more information you can contact evolution aqua themselves : Evolution Aqua.com
Holiday Aquatics
www.holidayaquatics.com

Tuesday 23 April 2013

Why Feed quality Koi Food

Feeding your Koi quality Foods and why

Japanese koi are the most colorful and magnificent fish that you can keep in any fresh water environment and there are many factors involved in raising these magnificent koi.

Many koi keepers have done all the right things in creating a koi pond large enough, with plenty of water movement and filtration to keep and grow large koi. They may buy quality Japanese koi that started out looking great, but as time goes by may loose koi to disease or have the colors seem to wash out. Many koi keepers overlook the importance of using a premium koi food that meets all the nutritional needs of their koi. It's like humans eating a diet of junk food and expecting to be trim and healthy and live a long life. 

Probiotic The Hikari Germ Process

The scientifically developed Saki-Hikari diets utilize the finest quality ingredients that can be found, including a patented, living probiotic. A merging of world-class technology, nutritional balance and patented ingredients allows Hikari to bring you this revolutionary diet. "Hikari Germ" is a strain of Bacillus bacteria which, when fed, proliferates itself inside the intestine of the koi offering many incredible benefits.

Saki Hikari Bacteria 

High Protein

The metabolism of koi reaches a peak at water temperatures of 75° F. During this time it is essential that they receive a high protein diet to aid in growth and color. They also need to be fed at least twice a day, three times is better. Koi do not have stomachs, and when their metabolism is high they forage constantly. Fish meal and krill for color are protein ingredients to look for in a high quality koi food 

Different Foods for the Seasons 

During the cooler seasons of spring and Autumn it is best to feed a food that is higher in vegetable matter, lower in protein, and easy to digest (Wheatgerm based foods). In the summer months, when the water temperature is above 70° F switch to a higher protein formula. When the water temperature is above 70° F it takes about 16 hours for the food to move completely through a koi digestive tract. At 50° F it can take up to 60 hours and food intake is much less. 

Only feed the koi as much as they will eat within a few minutes. It is much better to feed 3 times a day in the summer months. At 50° - 55° feed 2 - 3 times a week. When the water temperature goes below 50° F do not feed the koi at all. If the food is not digested due to the low metabolism it can rot in the gut of the koi and cause death.

Cost Versus Quality 

If you consider the cost of a high quality food versus the "cheap" foods, there is not that much difference. Keeping healthy koi using a high quality food means fewer outbreaks of disease and lower mortality rates. You are not spending money replacing koi or treating for disease with medications due to poor health because of a poor diet. You also have to go by weight and not just the physical size of the bag. Cheaper foods tend to be more airy while the premium foods tend to be more dense, so it looks like you are getting more food than you actually are with the cheap food. Many times, if compared by weight, the price is pretty close. In the long run it may actually be cheaper to buy the premium food. You will definitely notice the difference in the color, growth, and overall health of the koi over just a short time.

Whatever grade of Koi you have always make sure you feed the best koi food that you can afford and like us humans add variety to keep your Koi healthy and happy.
 
.
Happy Koi Keeping  

Holiday Aquatics

Sunday 21 April 2013

An Aquarium filter, what and why !

So why do we need an Aquarium filter and what type of filter is on the Market.

The purpose of the filter on your aquarium is to remove excess food, decaying organic matter, dangerous chemicals, and the fish waste from the water

The fish excrete waste constantly as they swim around in the water. If this waste is not removed, the toxins that the fish are removing from their systems will rapidly build up to high enough concentrations that the fish will poison themselves, Ammonia will be the first issue which will rise to a level the fish will get poisoned, if the fish are still managing to survive their next battle will come from Nitrite levels and nitrate levels then the lack of oxygen.

Basis are if you want to keep fish alive a filter is a must have no matter hwat size of tank your keeping, even if it's 1 fish in a bowl !

Filtration Methods:

Theres 3 types of filteration Biological, Mechanical and Chemical
  • Biological Filtration:Biological filtration involves bacteria converting your fishes' waste into less toxic substances. Your fish excrete waste into their aquarium water constantly as they make use of the food they eat. A biological filter will convert toxic ammonia (from your fishes' waste, excess food, decaying or dying plant mater, and dead fish) into Nitrite, and toxic Nitrite into Nitrate. Nitrate is relatively harmless, however, if it is not removed from the tank through regular water changes, Nitrate can cause fish helath issues, as well as suppress their appetite and prevent their gills from absorbing oxygen from the water. Nitrate will also contribute to algae growth. Biological filtration occurs as the water passes over any surface that the bacteria processing the waste can grow on.
    Biological filtration is established during a process called "cycling". Even the highest quality biological filters cannot process fish waste until they have properly cycled.

  • Mechanical Filtration:
    Mechanical filtration,  is provided by pushing the water through some form of filter media that acts as a strainer. This strainer will catch free-floating particles that cannot pass through the openings in the media. The media can be a sponge, filter floss, special filter pads, or even aquarium gravel.
    The quality of the mechanical filtration will depend on several things.
    The finer the media, the smaller particles can be caught. However, finer media gets clogged much more quickly and either needs to be rinsed out or replaced often. Coarser media will allow more particles through, but will take longer to get plugged up. Many mechanical filters will use several layers of media, starting with coarse and ending with a fine media to provide optimal water cleaning.
    Second, how much water is passed through the media? The longer it takes for the water to all go through the filter, the more time debris has to collect in the water or settle out, and the cloudier or murkier the water can become and the more debris will settle to the bottom of the tank.
    Third, how often do you clean your filter? A mechanical filter will provide better filtration if it is cleaned frequently and appropriately. The messier your tank is, the more you need mechanical filtration, however, the messier your tank is, the sooner your mechanical filter will become clogged. Some kinds of fish make a tank messier either by behavior (such as digging) or through their eating habits. Also, failure to provide sufficient water changes, over feeding, and other tank care issues will reduce the quality of your mechanical filtration.
  • Chemical Filtration:
    Chemical filtration is provided by carbon or chemical resins that extract toxins from the water. Activated filter carbon will aggressively remove chemicals from your water until the carbon becomes saturated. It is very important that any activated filter carbon in your filtration system be changed often.
    Typically, about 1 cubic inch of activated filter carbon can provide chemical filtration of 2 gallons of water for up to a month.
It's important that even though you have an aquarium filter, you must still stick to the guidelines of water changes, stocking level, filter cleaning and general aquarium maintenenace.

Aquarium filters come in all types of shapes and sizes from small internal filters to external filters. Although not one is better than the other is more important to choose the one thats correct for your set up.
If your thinking of buying a filter always make sure your not buying a filter that is only just suitable for your set up. eg if you have a 100l aquarium dont buy a filter that is suitable for aquariums from 50l to 100l, instead look at an aquarium filter that gives you that little bit extra. Our advice is to look at a filter range of around 100l to 150l.

If your building a Marine tank then filteration is very important and space to add diffrent types of filteration eg Protein skimmers, UV clarifiers etc. If space is available then having a sump filter is the best type of Marine filter allowing you lots more options to choose what type of filteration is best for you and your setup.

If your wanting more advice on aquariums and filters then why not check out the OATA website.

Good luck and Happy fishkeeping

Holiday Aquatics
www.holidayaquatics.com

Thursday 11 April 2013

Pond Pressure Filters and Pond Pressure Filter Kits

Koi Pond Pressure Filters now available at Holiday Aquatics

We now have a great selection of Pressure Filters for your Pond or Koi pond, from Oase and FTS. We also offer Pressure filter Kits, which include the correct pond pump and built in UV Filter.

As opposed to flow-through filters, pressure filters route the pump pressure through the filter. They can also be used below the surface level of the water. Consequently they are used classically for higher positioned watercourses; they can be partially buried in the ground adjacent to the watercourse where they do not disturb the natural garden look. This makes the closed system of the filter possible, which is ensured by the quickrelease closure. Ideally inflow hose and outflow hose are routed through the pond liner with the Tradux system. The cleaning processes function in accordance with the same principle as that of the flow-through filter and consequently also offer, (with correctly matched pond and filter size), a good basis for optimally filtered water.




Check out our great range at www.holidayaquatics.com

Holiday Aquatics
www.holidayaquatics.com

Sunday 7 April 2013

UV steriliser filter in a Tropical aquarium

UV Clarifier in  Tropical aquarium ?

UV clarifiers are accosiated with Marine tanks and Koi Ponds for clearing Green Water, but why are they not popular with Tropical ?

If your serious about keeping your tropical tank in tip top condition and your fish as healthy as possible, an ultraviolet steriliser is a potentially smart addition to your filtration armory.

In a Tropical tank, the aim of fitting a UV steriliser is to reduce the incidence of disease. Water passing through a properly-sized and fitted UV steriliser will be treated by UV light in such a way as to kill bacteria, parasites and other pathogens. A UV can therefore reduce the incidence of disease in the aquarium.
If you’re breeding your tropical fish, the UV steriliser will have a secondary benefit of reducing the chances of the eggs being attacked by bacteria and fungus.

Don’t worry about the UV steriliser killing the bacteria in your biological filter. It only kills bacteria that is in the water column that passes the UV, so the filter population is quite safe.
Here are a few more tips on UV sterilisers:
  • A small ultraviolet sterilizer costs less than losing fish or spending money on disease treatments
  • Make sure your UV steriliser is the appropriate power for the flow of water being pumped through it
  • If you can’t turnover the tank volume through your UV steriliser at a fast enough rate (because it is too low-powered) then you won’t kill parasites sufficiently quickly to affect the incidence of disease
  • In short, buy the right UV unit for your tank size and pump rate!
  • Clean water is a must, to stop the UV light being blocked by particles
  • UV bulbs age, and need to be replaced as per the manufacturer’s instructions. You can keep pumping water over an old bulb but it won’t be effective
  • A UV sterilizer should not be seen as a substitute for proper filtration, water changes, and other essentials!
OK so UV Filters aren’t essential for your Tropical set up, but if you're serious about Tropicals and have expensive fish or into breeding, why not give one a try it will only do your system good.

Happy Fishkeeping !

Holiday Aquatics

Thursday 4 April 2013

Koi Pond Filters

New Selection of Koi Pond Filters available at Holiday Aquatics

We have a great new selection of Koi Pond Filters here at Holiday Aquatics to accomodate any size of pond.

All the filters are among UK's best Pond filter range, we even have put together some Filter kits, including Air pumps, UV filters, Pump and Filter to get you started straight away.

So if your thinking of starting a pond or maybe after an upgrade then why not check our range of Pond Filters and Pond Filter Kits.


Holiday Aquatics
www.holidayaquatics.com

Thursday 28 March 2013

Evolution Aqua Eazy Pod Pond Filter

Evolution Aqua Eazy Pod Pond Filter

Now available at Holiday Aquatics !

We have a great selection of Evolution Aqua Eazy pod filter kits to suite any type of pond.

The Evolution Aqua EazyPod is the complete mechanical and biological pond filter system for garden ponds up to 20,000 litres or Koi ponds up to 10,000 litres. The EazyPod has been modified for 2012. The inlet on the new EazyPod features a welded 1½” Slide Valve with 1½” hosetail, making pump fed installation even easier. The waste on the EazyPod has also been made simpler with the introduction of a 1½” Slide Valve.
  Designed and created due to unprecedented demand
  Very eazy to install and operate
  Utilising proven Nexus Eazy cleaning system combined      with Kaldnes K3
  Gives incredibly 'GIN clear' water
  Quick and eazy cleaning cycle with no wet
     or dirty hands - JUST TURN AIR VALVE
  Complete with adjustable rubber connectors
  Small filter - only 23 inches tall AND WIDE (585mm)
  Works equally well pump or gravity fed
ALSO
  Ideal as a complete filter on a quarantine system
ALSO
  As A pre-filter, polisher or on a skimmer
     line, a great all rounder!
SpecificationEazy Pod
Max Feed Rate100g per day
Max Flow Rate10,000 litres/hr
2,200 UK gallons/hr
2,640 US gallons/hr
Kaldnes media30 litres
Max pond size
for ornamental fish
20,000 litres
4,400 UK gallons
5,333 US gallons
RecommendedAirpump 70
Max pond size for koi10,000 litres
2,200 UK gallons
2,666 US gallons

Holiday Aquatics
www.holidayaquatics.com

Tuesday 26 March 2013

Saki Hikari Multi Mix Koi Food

Saki Hikari Multi mix Koi Food now available at Holiday Aquatics

We have now put together a selection of Saki Hikari Koi Fish Foods to create an all season food mix for your Koi.

Don't let your Koi get bored of the same food, just like us fish need a variaty of foods to keep in good health and great condition.

By mixing foods your Koi has more chance of receiving all the vitamins and minarels they need throughout the year.

Our selection contains 4 x 2kg bags :

1 x 2kg Saki Hikari Balance
1 x 2kg Saki Hikari Colour Enhancer
1 x 2kg Saki Hikari Multi Season
1 x 2kg Saki Hikari Growth Diet
Check our site for more details, available in Medium and Small pellets.

Happy Koi Feeding

Holiday Aquatics

Monday 25 March 2013

Setting up a Lake Malawi Cichlid Tank

Setting up a Lake Malawi Cichlid Tank

Setting up your cichlid tank

Malawian cichlids have three general living preferences: rocky, sandy or mid-water. Use smooth rocks and pile them up to form caves and hideaways for them to take refuge in. As most Cichlids are teritorial it's wise to create as many caves and hideaways as possible.
Make sure all rockwork is secure and start building the rockwork from the base of the tank rather than from the substrate.
Rockwork can be bonded together using aquarium safe epoxy or aquarium glue.
Your Substrate should just cover the bottom of your tank as some cichlids like to dig and they will make piles of sand all along the bottom of the tank so having too much Sand will make for all kinds of unsightly heaps.



Lake Malawi Cichlid Temperature

Like most Tropical Fish Cichlids are very hardy but they do not do well if there are great fluctuations in temperature. Lake Malawi has water temperatures that vary from 70 to 80 degrees so a heater is essential Smaller tanks can go with a single heater, whereas larger tanks should use two. Follow the rule of 3 watts per gallon and don't forget to get an accurate thermometer and place the thermometer away from the heater.

Cichlid Filtration

As Cichlid tanks work better with a good volume of fish you will need to have excellent filtration. In fact, we can't stress this enough.
A canister filter is highly recommended. Make sure the canister filter can cope with your tank size, infact with a cichlid tank slightly oversizing will cover you for that extra waste the fish will produce and it will add extra water volume. Make sure you clean the canister filter regularly and always clean sponges using old aquarium water so as not to kill of the beneficial bacteria.

African Cichlid Lighting

Most Malawian cichlids live deep in the lake so light is minimul, so to try and keep to their natural habitat don't over do it with the lighting. One bulb is recommended or one LED unit depending on tank size. If you want to really make the blue color in these fish stand out then you need to add a blue actinic bulb.

As like all other fish tanks you want to keep a good living balance so attach your lights to a timer, so lights come on and of around the same time everyday. Duration of lighting is your preferance but i would say to go for around 7 to 8 hours of light.

Lake Malawi Cichlid Water Chemistry

The pH in Lake Malawi ranges from 7.8 to 8.5 which is moderately high.
As we are wanting to try and re-creatie the natural habitat you should aim for this pH level. Invest in a pH test kit to aid in testing your tank water and the water you will add on a regular basis through water changes. You can add pH adjusters to your water to alter the ph up or down, but make sure you adjust pH slowy in your tank otherwise the fish will suffer pH shock.

Water hardness is important to consider as well. The kH of Lake Malawi is between 12 and 13. Again you may need to measure the hardness of your water using a kH test kit. If your kH is low you will need to raise the hardness. A thin layer of crushed coral sand is a great way to keep the water on the alkaline side. It will continually leach out minerals into the water or you can add buffering agents

Cichlid Feeding

Like all fish keeping you will want to make sure you feed your fish the best possible diet with plenty of vitamins and minerals. Feeding a high quality diet will go a long way in keeping your fish happy and healthy. Try mixing foods so your fish gets a good varied diet.


Cichlid Water Changes


The single most important thing to do with an aquarium is to do regular water changes. Water changes can be done weekly or bi-weekly. If you overcrowd your tank with cichlids then it is recommended that you do around a 40% to 50% water change weekly otherwise you can keep to around 10% - 15% a week. Add conditioner to your new water to dissipate chlorine and heavy metals from the water.
 Use a siphon to remove all the feces at the bottom of the aquarium. It is also good to clean your filter pads at this time. If they are old replace them with new ones, but if they are still newer then dip them into the old water that has been removed from the tank. This way the nitrifying bacteria will not be harmed and put the original filter pad back into the filter.

Try and make your new water as close to the tank parameters as possible as if doing big water changes with incorrect water your parameters will change too quickly stressing your fish.
Never put in cold water!

Good luck and make sure all rockwork is secure !

Happy Fishkeeping

Holiday Aquatics
www.holidayaquatics.com

Friday 22 March 2013

Saki Hikari wins Koi food of the year 2012

Saki Hikari Wins Koi food of the Year 2012

Saki Hikari. The ‘food of champions’ is definitely the number one hobbyists’ choice! Saki Hikari is the most popular koi food in Japan and is used by breeders throughout the world. It’s not surprising then that you have also made it your top choice!

Saki Hikari Koi food of the Year

Saki Hikari full range of Koi foods is now available at Holiday Aquatics.

Happy Koi Keeping
Holiday Aquatics
www.holidayaquatics.com

Wednesday 20 March 2013

Aquarium Heater Guide

Aquarium heater guide

Most pet Tropical fish and Marine fish come from tropical regions of the globe, where the water temperature is around 75 degrees Fahrenheit or higher. 

Maintaining a consistently warm water temperature for your fish is essential to their well-being.
You can maintain an ideal temperature in your tank by adjusting the thermostat on your aquarium heater

It’s a good idea to put a separate thermometer (independent from the heater) in your tank so you can monitor water temperature on an ongoing basis and make adjustments in your thermostat, since environmental conditions in and around your aquarium are always changing.

Make sure you place your thermometer away from the heater, we prefer to have the thermometer at the other end of the tank that way you get a true reading rather than a possible inflated readings due to the thermometer being too close to the heater.

Thermometers come in varied types, we would suggest using a digital thermometer for accuracy.

A wide variety of heaters are available at Holiday Aquatics, made by Tetra, TMC, Juwell and Superfish.

The size of your heater should match the size of  your tank.

Generally, you’ll want to provide at least 3 watts of heater power -- and preferably 5 watts -- for every gallon of tank capacity.

This formula provides us with the following general recommendations:

10 gallon tank = 50 watt heater
20 gallon tank = 100 watt heater  
30 gallon tank = 150 watt heater
40 gallon tank = 200 watt heater

For tanks that are 50 gallons or smaller, it’s usually best to use one heater.  In tanks with more than a 50-gallon capacity, you should reach the recommended wattage by using two smaller heaters rather than one larger model.

For example, one 200 watt heater and one 100 watt heater instead of a single 300-watt unit, this way you avoid the issue of overheating if theres an issue with the thermastate and also you have a backup if one heater should fail.

Your aquarium heater should be positioned in an area where there is lots of water movement to ensure that heat is circulated adequately throughout the tank.

For safety, always unplug a heater and allow it to sit in the tank for 10-15 minutes to cool down before it is handled.  A submersible unit should never be kept above the water surface as this could shatter the heater. The heater should be unplugged before water is removed from your tank during water changes. This will protect against the hazards that can arise when an active water heater is exposed to air.  You should also inspect your heater on a regular basis to make sure there are no cracks in its glass tubing. 

We also advise to always have a backup heater handy, just incase you do get a failed heater as it's suprising how quickly water tempratures can drop, especially through the winter months.

If your unsure which heater you should use then just contact us and we will guide you in the right direction.

Happy Fishkeeping

Holiday Aquatics

Monday 18 March 2013

Colombo Bactuur Filter Start

Colombo Bactuur Filter Start

It's nearly spring and it's time to start thinking about kicking your Pond filter back up, well why not try the new Colombo Bactuur Filter start.

Colombo Filter start is a bacteria starter for new and existing ponds. In the spring and after maintenance the biological equilibrium needs to be re-established.

The living bacteria in Filter Start will help to get the filter working as soon as possible.

1 litre is sufficient for 5.000 litres of water.


Available in 3 sizes 500ml, 1000ml and 2500ml 

Happy Fishkeeping

Holiday Aquatics

Price Matching now available

Price Matching now available

Well we are that confident with our prices we are now offering a price matching service, so if you see it cheaper elsewhere then let us know and we will price match. 

**Note there is some terms and conditions to the price matching so check the website for full details before contacting us.

Happy Fishkeeping

Holiday Aquatics 

www.holidayaquatics.com

 


Tuesday 5 March 2013

Saki Hikari Koi Fish Food

Saki Hikari Koi Food - The food of Champions

It's amazing to think how much goes into food for fish, the time the effort the research just to produce a great quality food for your Koi.
Why not i say some Koi cost more than a Cat or a Dog, in fact some cost more than a CAR ! so why would you then feed your fish a poor diet.

Saki Hikari offer an amazing range of foods to get the best out of your Koi throughout all the seasons and its good to know the better the quality of food the less waste resulting in improved water quality. If your looking to produce amazing quality Koi for your own benefit or for showing then Saki Hikari should be your number one choice.

Heres what Hikari say about their product :

Because,the quality and performance of Saki-Hikari® is easily recognized with continued feeding. Some of the many benefits include:
  1. Rapid nutrient utilization.
  2. Excellent feed efficiency .
  3. The good bacteria create beneficial digestive enzymes thereby improving the digestive capacity of the koi.
  4. The good bacteria utilize the food source required by the bad bacteria therefore reducing the number of bad bacteria. Additional vitamins & minerals your fish can utilize to support a healthy immune system.
  5. Bacterial decomposition of expelled waste.
  6. Reduced sludge in filter media leading to reduced cleaning and maintenance 
  7. Improved overall water quality and a healthy environment for the fish.
  • Developed on the back of decades of extensive research into the breeding, eating habits and natural habitats of Koi.
  • Created using only the finest quality and carefully selected ingredients
  • A Lab-verified formula based on frequent and ongoing feeding trials that confirm its effectiveness
  • Manufactured using strict quality control measures and extensive traceability procedures.

  • To consistently deliver the highest quality we can offer, backed by our ongoing study of ingredients, nutritional requirements, production technology, packaging innovation and strict quality control measures, it is important that you should only buy our products in their original Hikari® package.
    Every product we produce is packed in a clean, dedicated packing facility to avoid any contamination in packages that maintain product quality and freshness.
    Saki Hikari does come at a price to your regular Koi food but again theres so much research and know how gone into Saki Hikari that this fish food offers way beyond any other Koi foods on the market today.

    Below is a the process of the Probiotic bacteria thats added to all Saki Hikari Foods


    Saki Hikari

    So if you've never tried Saki Hikari why not give it a try and see the difference to your Koi and water quality.

    Holiday Aquatics offer the full range of Saki Hikari Foods, including Balance, Multi Season, Growth and Colour enhancer all at competative prices, see our site for details.

    Happy Fish Keeping

    Holiday Aquatics

    Blanket Weed prevention and control

    Blanket Weed Prevention and Control

    Blanket weed is all pond keepers nightmare !

    Theres nothing frustrating than spending hours and hundreds of pounds to create an amazing pond only to be bogged down by Blanket Weed.

    Left to establish Blanket Weed can soon smother every surface you have even covering the whole surface of the pond, leaving your pond drab and very un-attractive.

    The good news is Blanket Weed is controllable and you can easily have a successful summer without seeing any blanket weed at all.
    Your main fight against Blanket Weed is to understand why it grows and what is it using to grow.

    Nutrients Blanket Weed Require to Grow

    It's simpler than you think ... Blanket weed is an algae and algae are plants (and mainly green at that) and this means they love nitrogen, phosphorous and light. In pond water these chemical elements show up as NITRATES,PHOSPHATES and the Sun.

    Nitrates and Phosphates are produced through the nitrification proccess and the addition of foods (Fish waste).

    Remove one of these three elements and your sorted thats why come the winter months Blanket Weed dies off, but thats no good we don't want to get rid of the light through the summer, however we can help a little.

    Sunlight

    Theres nothing much we can do about sunlight and why would we want to hide our pond away in a completetly shaded area.
    One thing we can do however is create a little area of shade, this will go down well in helping Blanket Weed control and also gives your fish a little area of shade, however don't use trees as shade, the roots of the tree could cause damage to your pond and the leaves falling into your pond will only add unwanted nutriants.

    UV Filters / sterilisers

    UV Filters go alongway in killing off algae spores before they can get a hold, if you havn't got one then get one these are a must have addition. Make sure the UV filter is sufficiant for your pond size. My advice always go a little bigger. A UV steriliser will also go alongway in helping with disease control.

    Nitrate and Phosphates

    Ok so you have a little shaded spot, you run a UV steriliser, now it's time to reduce your Nitrates and Phosphates. Easy said than done and this will take time but heres the first steps :

    If you already have Blanket Weed then remove it and keep upto clearing it out of your pond, don't let it get a hold.

    Test your Nitrates and Phosphates, this will give you a starting point to see that what you are doing is helping, however if you already have bad Blanket Weed it's possible these maybe low, don't be fooled the Blanket weed is using the Nitrates and Phosphates.

    Clean you filter

    Yes this can be a big bit of work but if you havn't cleaned it in a long time then it needs doing. remove all media and sponges and rinse in pond water, this also goes down as a water change for your pond. Use filtered water to top your pond back up, if possible use a nitrate and phoshpate media to remove these elements before adding the water to your pond.

    If required replace your sponges. If your Sponge is your main media for bacteria then you will need to cut your sponge and replace with the new sponge in sections over a month or more, otherwise you will crash your pond filteration system.

    Clean your pond.

    Clean the bottom and the walls of your pond. Your pond bottom should be left empty, don't use gravel at the bottom of your pond as this will only add to your issue. However if you do want pebbles or stones then these need removing so you can get to the bottom of your pond. Rinse the stones / pebbles and put them back, if they have Blanket Weed on already then scrub the weed off.

    After a week test your Nitrates and Phosphates again, have they reduced ?

    Check stocking levels of your pond are you within the correct parameters ? overstocking will not help in reducing your Nitrate and Phosphate levels.

    It's never easy in reducing your Nitrates and Phosphates but stick with it. Not many fishkeepers know that Phosphates and Nitrates go hand in hand and if one is higher then the other it can be difficult to bring one of them down, if they are both around the same level you will probably find it easier to bring down.

    Plants

    Plants are great at sucking up nitrates and phosphates as we know get some desirable pond plants in your pond, these will go along way in starving the Blanket weed of the nutriants it requires. Do some reading on plants faster growing plants will need more nutriants so these are a good starting point.

    Chemical additives

    Sometimes no matter what we do Blanket Weed will just not go using the natural methods above. So now it's time to add some additives to help.
    There are alot of Blanket Weed controllers around. Do read up before adding any chemical to your pond and always stick to the manufacturers instructions.

    Why not try our range, we have the Colombo Algisin which works wonders.

    Remember prevention is better than the cure so try and keep upto your pond cleaning regime always do regular testing of your Nitrates and Phosphates before they peak.

    I will go into detail of how we used or Marine Reef keeping skills to our Pond to get zero nitrates and phosphates in another post.

    Good luck and Happy Fishkeeping !

    Holiday Aquatics
    www.holidayaquatics.com

    Tuesday 26 February 2013

    Setting up a Tropical tank

    Basics to setting up a Tropical tank..

    Before you get your aquarium, choose a place to put it.

    Remember that wherever you place it needs to be able to support the weight.
    Also bear in mind the temperature of the location. If possible keep away from direct sunlight as this will lead to unwanted algae blooms.


    Set your aquarium up. Place it securely in its new home, and if possible check to make sure it is level. Remember, unless it is a very small tank, once it is full you should never attempt to move it. Moving a tank with water in it can lead to disaster.

    Rinse your gravel/substrate. If you plan on using live plants, consider researching what substrate is best to use. Remember, some fish have specific requirements on what substrate/gravel they need.
    You will want to rinse your gravel well before placing it in a tank to remove dust and debris from travel.
    Scoop the gravel into your tank slowly so you do not damage or scratch the glass. Generally it is best to create a gentle slope of gravel; deepest in the back and most shallow in the front this give the impression of depth.

    Water time! Place a small, clean dish on the gravel floor of the aquarium, and pour water into this dish if you wish to avoid displacing the gravel. If you are a beginner fish keeper, it will be easiest for you to use tap water.

    Add de-chlorinator (a liquid that will render your tap water safe for fish to live in it, it removes the chlorine. Good brands will also remove chlorine, ammonia, and nitrite). Be sure to follow the instructions on the package.

    Add your decorations. Remember to use only safe decor for a freshwater aquarium. Not all rock types are safe for freshwater aquariums- research or ask your local fish shop what their recommendation is. Consider what species you are going to keep- decor for an aquarium full of African Cichlids would be different than for goldfish, for example.

    Attach your filter. Each filter is different so be sure to follow instructions. Once it is hooked up properly, you may plug it in and ensure that it operates properly. If you are using a canister style filter, consider attaching the spray bar so that it agitates (creates ripples) on the surface of the water. This will help dissolve oxygen for your fish. All other types of filters should normally agitate the water.

    Place your heater into the tank. Follow instructions carefully! Some heaters are fully submersible, some or not. Wait at least 30 minutes before plugging your heater in! If you fail to do this you run the risk of causing the heater to shatter due to thermal inversion. Set the heater at a proper temperature. This may take some fiddling depending on your heater model.

    Place the thermometer in/on the tank. Ideally most tropical freshwater fish enjoy a constant temperature in the 24°C - 28ºC range. Research the species you wish to keep to learn about specific temperature requirements.

    Place the aquarium hood and lighting on the tank. Note that most lighting will work for any species you keep, however additional research should be preformed if you wish to keep live plants. Live plants often require more than standard lighting. We recommend attaching your lights to a timer as this will be beneficial to your aquatic life.

    Confirm that all cords have a drip-loop. A drip loop is a U-shape in the cord, so that if any water were to drip down the cord, it will fall to the floor instead of running into an electrical socket!

    Test your water. Test for pH, carbonate hardness(KH), General Hardness(GH), Nitrites, Nitrates, and Ammonia. You should not have any Ammonia, Nitrite or Nitrate yet, unless your tap water contains these. Calcium carbonate (hardness) ties in to pH. If you have very soft water, the pH of your tank can become unstable. If your water is soft, add conditioning salt & KH Powder to your tank to prevent a pH crash. Most freshwater fish can live in a pH from 6.5 to 8.0. (7.0)is Neutral and preferred by most fish.

    Test your pH at least once per month and never let it drop below 6.0.

    Sit back and relax. Grab a book or hop on the Internet and decide what kinds of fish you might like. You will need to wait at least 48 hours before adding your first fish. Adding too many fish too quickly is usually the worst of beginner's mistakes and usually leads to total tank failure.

    Adding fish, and understanding your new tank. Adding fish is the most exciting part of setting up the tank! Unfortunately, it is often the worst mistake unless done properly. By following these steps, you will help to avoid the heartbreak of having all your fish die:

    Let your tank run without anything in it for at least 48 hours. This helps the temperature stabilize. It allows you to make sure your water parameters are safe, and gives the dust and all parts of your tank to settle.

    If you plan on keeping live plants, add them. They will help jump start the biological process needed to support live fish in your tank. You can also add Startup to help kickstart your tank.

    Take time to understand that your tank is not just a fancy cage for your fish. It is an entire ecosystem. Fish produce lots of ammonia- they produce it when they defecate, and they produce it as they breathe. That's what the filter is for, right? Well, yes and no. The filter only works properly when it is full of nitrifying bacteria. These are the good bacteria necessary to support your live fish. Without these bacteria, the ammonia that your fish make stays in the water and poisons your fish. Your brand new tank, being clean and newly set up, does not contain these good bacteria. If you add a group of fish without letting this bacteria grow in your tank, you are dooming your fish. This bacteria takes anywhere from 2-6 weeks to populate! So, what do you do? There are several methods of 'breaking in' or 'cycling' a tank... So, Cycle your tank.

    If you know someone with a tank that has been set up for more than two months and with healthy fish, you can borrow some used filter media from them. Keep the media wet until you add them to your tank (gotta keep those good bacteria alive!). The good bacteria will have a jump start in populating your tank. If you don't know a friend with fish, you can purchase live bacteria in several forms from us at Holiday Aquatics

    Add fish slowly. If possible, add no more than 1-2 smaller fish per 40 liters. For the first week, feed them very sparingly (a tiny amount) every other day. This is not cruel- remember if you overfeed at this point it may kill them. If you have your own test kit you can test your water daily, keeping a special eye on the Ammonia and Nitrite levels. If at any time the Ammonia or Nitrite spike to a dangerous level, perform a 20-30% water change. Never remove more than 30% at this stage (or you run the risk of killing your good bacteria off) and always replace with dechlorinated water.
    After a week it should be suitable for you to add a few more fish, and repeat the process. Barring any problems, you should have a stable tank within 4-6 weeks. After your tank is stable, you can feed on a regular schedule and can add fish as you desire. Remember: adding a large number of fish at a time sometimes causes the tank to become temporarily imbalanced, so use caution. Also remember that your tank can only support a limited number of fish per liter. This number depends on how large the fish is and its eating habits.

    TIPS :

    • When You buy fish, you should provide them with a tank that will be big enough for the fish when they are adults
    • Before putting ornaments like gravel and wood in the aquarium, make sure you rinse it thoroughly.
    • Before you buy fish - RESEARCH the species you want. Never buy on impulse, always research the fish at home so you don't buy an unsuitable animal for you or the fish that you may already have.
    • Remember you are bringing living animals into your home and care and it is unfair to them to skimp on their needs. Be sure you have the finances and time to dedicate to an aquarium.
    • Don't forget to continue to add good bacteria to your aquarium on a weekly basis.
    • Goldfish bowls can be considered cruel. Goldfish reach a minimum of 8" and can live 15 years or longer, and need a filtered tank. Goldfish are not a good beginner fish! For 1 goldfish, you need a 20gal tank, and you need to add 10gals on for each extra goldie!
    • When adding fish such as Bettas (betta splendens) do not keep them in a community, as schooling fish nip their fins, and they fight with cichlids and other labyrinth fish.
    Good luck and Happy Fishkeeping !

    Holiday Aquatics
    www.holidayaquatics.com

    Wednesday 20 February 2013

    Essential Koi Fish Pond Supplies

    Essential Supplies for a Koi Fish Pond

    Do you plan to have a Koi pond? When getting into this kind of hobby or venture, it is not enough that you dig a hole in the ground and fill it water, plants and fish.

    It is because like any other ecosystem, ponds also require proper care and maintenance to effectively keep a clean, safe and healthy environment for fish.
    To help you properly sustain the life of your Koi collection and to help you become successful in keeping them, here are some of the basic essential Koi fish pond supplies that you should use. These pond supplies are proven beneficial in sustaining a healthy underwater ecosystem. These include:

    Pond filters

    When buying a pond filter, you should choose a system that is sufficient enough for the size of your water garden. Ideally, you should buy something that can hold at least ten percent of the total water in your pond. If you can get a larger filter, the better.

    Pond pumps

    A Pond pump works by circulating the water in your pond and by driving the pond filter. As much as possible, the power of the pump must be in relation to the size of your water garden. For smaller ponds, it is ideal to have a submersible pump, while a larger pond would need an external pump. To help you run a better water garden, it is advisable to install at least two pumps instead of a single large one. Do not go by the capacity of the pump indicated on it. You should also choose in accordance to the actual volume of your pond.

    Pond UV sterilizer

    pond UV light clarifier can kill the harmful bacteria to prevent the growth of algae. When buying this product, choose the one that has a size adequate for your pond size and flow rate.

    Pond aeration system

    Always remember that every living creature needs oxygen in order to survive, this is the same with Koi pond keeping. We strongly suggest installing an Air Pump As a general rule, a pond with less than six feet deep must use a surface aeration, while deeper ponds must use bottom aeration.

    Test Kits

    Testing your water is one of the essential activaties that you should maintain throughout, Heres a list of the basic parameters that you should be testing for

    Testing for pHThe pH value denotes whether water is acidic, neutral or basic. If the water is too acidic or basic, this can quickly result in the death of fish.

    Testing for NO2 Nitrite
    Nitrite is produced by useful bacteria during the decomposition of ammonia waste secreted by the fish. Nitrite can adversely affect the health of your fish, even when it is present in low concentrations. Nitrite is decomposed by bacteria in the filter into nitrate that is vitually harmless to your fish.

    Testing for NO3
    Nitrate is produced by useful nitrifying bacteria in filters of aquariums or ponds during the decomposition of toxic waste (ammonia and nitrite). Nitrate is not toxic for the fish in your aquarium or pond but too high concentrations can inhibit reproduction and growth.

    Testing for KH Total Alkalinity)
    Alkalinity, also called carbonate hardness or temporary haedness is formed by binding of calcium with carbon dioxide. This binding is important for the buffering of the pH in the aquarium or pond.

    Testing for GH (General Hardness)
    The GH measures the total amount of minerals dissolved in water. All the dissolved minerals that determine the 'hardness' of the water are essential for the biological processes that occur in your aquarium or pond. If the hardness is too low, this inhibits these processes, and the pond will become stagnant.

    Koi Fish Food

    Feeding your fish is one of the most enjoyable parts of keeping a Koi Pond. To make sure your Koi are kept in tiptop condition then feeding a good quality feed is essential, don't scrimp on own label brands, instead opt for good quality brand that offers all the essential vitamins and minerals.

    All the essentials above are good enough to start you going but there are lots of other advanced options that also can be considered - Bottom drains, Heaters etc etc which we can pick up at a later date.

    All Supplies can be purchased at Holiday Aquatics to start you up in your Koi Pond adventure.

    Good luck

    Holiday Aquatics

    Tuesday 19 February 2013

    Beginners Guide to Aquascaping

    Beginners Guide to Aquascaping


    Keeping fish in an aquarium is a hobby that many people can enjoy. Owning a planted aquarium that is filled with a variety of different colours of fish and other water creatures can be an enjoyable experience for anyone. The look, the sounds, and the feel of having an aquarium in a room is like bringing a soothing part of nature indoors. One of the best parts of owning a fish tank is the process known as aquascaping.

    Aquascaping Defined

    For new owners of aquariums who may not be familiar with the term, aquascaping is the process of making a plain fish tank into a stunning and attractive piece of artwork. It’s a way of transforming the underwater world of the tank into a place of diverse life and beauty. People tend to go about this by adding an assortment of live fish, rocks, invertebrates, vegetation (aquarium plants) and a range of different decorations.
    Aquascape by Takashi Amano
    Aquascape by Hiroyuki Yamabi

    The Main Goal of Aquascaping

    This term gives aquarium owners free range to decorate the tank the way they want. The goal is to be creative and to craft an appealing and attractive underwater habitat while keeping the environment a place where the fish and other creatures can survive and thrive.

    A World of Variety

    A fish tank owner can take advantage of the broad range of different decoration pieces that are out there for their choosing. Whether hunting around at a pet store for that perfect rock or surfing on the internet for a favorite fish, the world of aquascaping has no limits. The variety is vast, and because there are so many different available animals and decorations for the perfect fish tank, everyone should be able to find what they are looking for to make their aquarium just the way they want it.

    What Every Planted Tank Needs

    For those who are new to aquascaping, learning how to go about it may seem a bit overwhelming or confusing. First, an aquarium should be able to support life. That means getting down to the basics and essentials needed to support life. Here are a few products that every tank owner will need in order for their aquarium to keep the environment healthy and alive:
    • Air Pump: An air pump is a device that is used in a fish tank in order to move air. Usually the average aquarium air pump will work to move the air by means of an electromagnet that vigorously vibrates a rubber diaphragm.
    • Lights: Artificial lighting in the fish tank is used in order to illuminate the tank itself. For some tanks, it’s necessary to have specialized lights that are high intensity in order to support the diverse aqua life.
    • Filters: All tanks require both mechanical and biological filtration in order to support a healthy environment and a safe habitat. This is where filters come in. Filters will typically be used to clean all of the water within the aquarium at least 4 times an hour. Larger fish tanks may require power filters.
    • Heaters: An aquarium that houses tropical fish should always have a heater to mimic the natural habitats of such wild life.

    Another great aquascape
    Another great aquascape
    Remember that the fish are living creatures so they require specific essentials to survive. These necessary items can be found on the internet and at most pet stores.

    Wow!
    Wow!

    Using the Essentials as Decorations

    As a rule of thumb, it’s important to have the necessities that will keep fish and other organisms happy and healthy. These required items can also make attractive decorations when someone wishes to aquascape their tank. For example, using rocks as decorations can add certain style to the tank, particularly decorative rocks. These rocks will also provide the fish and other creatures a suitable hiding place. This is significant because most fish will require places to hide out. Also, using colored gravel or sand at the bottom of the tank is great for supporting any of the faux vegetation that might be used during aquascaping.
    Hardscape
    Hardscape

    A Planted Tank and Aquascaping

     Having a planted aquarium during the process of aquascaping can be beautiful and attractive. Plants help to keep fish and other life healthy. While some people may have trouble keeping up on an aquatic garden, maintaining the lives of the plants should not be too much harder than maintaining the lives of the fish themselves. Both fish and plants will need clean water to stay healthy. Most of the necessities that plants require are already available in the water.
     

    How to Get Started with Aquascaping

    When aquascaping for the first time it’s helpful to follow these steps:
    • Necessities First: Always make sure that you have what you need to support life prior to adding anything else. Lights, filters, food, C02 Units and water pumps are always good starting points.
    • Start from the ground and move up: Using gravel at the bottom of the tank makes maintenance easier. There are lots of options. Gravel comes in different colors and textures. Aquascapers can also use sand, pebbles, or glass stones.
    Do not use rocks or sand from a real beach as this can track in bacteria to the aquarium and be devastating to the life within the tank.
    • Pick out one large decoration: Though it’s not actually necessary, one tip is to choose one decoration that is larger than the rest. This can act as the focal point of the tank.
    • Find balance: Finding balance between the smaller decorations and the larger pieces will help to customize the look and feel of the aquarium.
    • Be creative: Have fun and be creative when picking out different ornaments, plants and other decorations to add to the tank. Try experimenting with a variety of different decorations. A backdrop in the tank and unique lighting can create an aquascape that is completely your own. A planted tank serves for one of the best methods when someone wishes to aquascape because of the natural beauty that is incorporated in each tank.
    Aquascaping is a fun and enjoyable process that is relatively easy and a great activity for the whole family.
    Most of the items discussed in this post are available at Holiday Aquatics 
     
    Happy Aquascaping !
     
    Holiday Aquatics