Tuesday 26 February 2013

Setting up a Tropical tank

Basics to setting up a Tropical tank..

Before you get your aquarium, choose a place to put it.

Remember that wherever you place it needs to be able to support the weight.
Also bear in mind the temperature of the location. If possible keep away from direct sunlight as this will lead to unwanted algae blooms.


Set your aquarium up. Place it securely in its new home, and if possible check to make sure it is level. Remember, unless it is a very small tank, once it is full you should never attempt to move it. Moving a tank with water in it can lead to disaster.

Rinse your gravel/substrate. If you plan on using live plants, consider researching what substrate is best to use. Remember, some fish have specific requirements on what substrate/gravel they need.
You will want to rinse your gravel well before placing it in a tank to remove dust and debris from travel.
Scoop the gravel into your tank slowly so you do not damage or scratch the glass. Generally it is best to create a gentle slope of gravel; deepest in the back and most shallow in the front this give the impression of depth.

Water time! Place a small, clean dish on the gravel floor of the aquarium, and pour water into this dish if you wish to avoid displacing the gravel. If you are a beginner fish keeper, it will be easiest for you to use tap water.

Add de-chlorinator (a liquid that will render your tap water safe for fish to live in it, it removes the chlorine. Good brands will also remove chlorine, ammonia, and nitrite). Be sure to follow the instructions on the package.

Add your decorations. Remember to use only safe decor for a freshwater aquarium. Not all rock types are safe for freshwater aquariums- research or ask your local fish shop what their recommendation is. Consider what species you are going to keep- decor for an aquarium full of African Cichlids would be different than for goldfish, for example.

Attach your filter. Each filter is different so be sure to follow instructions. Once it is hooked up properly, you may plug it in and ensure that it operates properly. If you are using a canister style filter, consider attaching the spray bar so that it agitates (creates ripples) on the surface of the water. This will help dissolve oxygen for your fish. All other types of filters should normally agitate the water.

Place your heater into the tank. Follow instructions carefully! Some heaters are fully submersible, some or not. Wait at least 30 minutes before plugging your heater in! If you fail to do this you run the risk of causing the heater to shatter due to thermal inversion. Set the heater at a proper temperature. This may take some fiddling depending on your heater model.

Place the thermometer in/on the tank. Ideally most tropical freshwater fish enjoy a constant temperature in the 24°C - 28ÂșC range. Research the species you wish to keep to learn about specific temperature requirements.

Place the aquarium hood and lighting on the tank. Note that most lighting will work for any species you keep, however additional research should be preformed if you wish to keep live plants. Live plants often require more than standard lighting. We recommend attaching your lights to a timer as this will be beneficial to your aquatic life.

Confirm that all cords have a drip-loop. A drip loop is a U-shape in the cord, so that if any water were to drip down the cord, it will fall to the floor instead of running into an electrical socket!

Test your water. Test for pH, carbonate hardness(KH), General Hardness(GH), Nitrites, Nitrates, and Ammonia. You should not have any Ammonia, Nitrite or Nitrate yet, unless your tap water contains these. Calcium carbonate (hardness) ties in to pH. If you have very soft water, the pH of your tank can become unstable. If your water is soft, add conditioning salt & KH Powder to your tank to prevent a pH crash. Most freshwater fish can live in a pH from 6.5 to 8.0. (7.0)is Neutral and preferred by most fish.

Test your pH at least once per month and never let it drop below 6.0.

Sit back and relax. Grab a book or hop on the Internet and decide what kinds of fish you might like. You will need to wait at least 48 hours before adding your first fish. Adding too many fish too quickly is usually the worst of beginner's mistakes and usually leads to total tank failure.

Adding fish, and understanding your new tank. Adding fish is the most exciting part of setting up the tank! Unfortunately, it is often the worst mistake unless done properly. By following these steps, you will help to avoid the heartbreak of having all your fish die:

Let your tank run without anything in it for at least 48 hours. This helps the temperature stabilize. It allows you to make sure your water parameters are safe, and gives the dust and all parts of your tank to settle.

If you plan on keeping live plants, add them. They will help jump start the biological process needed to support live fish in your tank. You can also add Startup to help kickstart your tank.

Take time to understand that your tank is not just a fancy cage for your fish. It is an entire ecosystem. Fish produce lots of ammonia- they produce it when they defecate, and they produce it as they breathe. That's what the filter is for, right? Well, yes and no. The filter only works properly when it is full of nitrifying bacteria. These are the good bacteria necessary to support your live fish. Without these bacteria, the ammonia that your fish make stays in the water and poisons your fish. Your brand new tank, being clean and newly set up, does not contain these good bacteria. If you add a group of fish without letting this bacteria grow in your tank, you are dooming your fish. This bacteria takes anywhere from 2-6 weeks to populate! So, what do you do? There are several methods of 'breaking in' or 'cycling' a tank... So, Cycle your tank.

If you know someone with a tank that has been set up for more than two months and with healthy fish, you can borrow some used filter media from them. Keep the media wet until you add them to your tank (gotta keep those good bacteria alive!). The good bacteria will have a jump start in populating your tank. If you don't know a friend with fish, you can purchase live bacteria in several forms from us at Holiday Aquatics

Add fish slowly. If possible, add no more than 1-2 smaller fish per 40 liters. For the first week, feed them very sparingly (a tiny amount) every other day. This is not cruel- remember if you overfeed at this point it may kill them. If you have your own test kit you can test your water daily, keeping a special eye on the Ammonia and Nitrite levels. If at any time the Ammonia or Nitrite spike to a dangerous level, perform a 20-30% water change. Never remove more than 30% at this stage (or you run the risk of killing your good bacteria off) and always replace with dechlorinated water.
After a week it should be suitable for you to add a few more fish, and repeat the process. Barring any problems, you should have a stable tank within 4-6 weeks. After your tank is stable, you can feed on a regular schedule and can add fish as you desire. Remember: adding a large number of fish at a time sometimes causes the tank to become temporarily imbalanced, so use caution. Also remember that your tank can only support a limited number of fish per liter. This number depends on how large the fish is and its eating habits.

TIPS :

  • When You buy fish, you should provide them with a tank that will be big enough for the fish when they are adults
  • Before putting ornaments like gravel and wood in the aquarium, make sure you rinse it thoroughly.
  • Before you buy fish - RESEARCH the species you want. Never buy on impulse, always research the fish at home so you don't buy an unsuitable animal for you or the fish that you may already have.
  • Remember you are bringing living animals into your home and care and it is unfair to them to skimp on their needs. Be sure you have the finances and time to dedicate to an aquarium.
  • Don't forget to continue to add good bacteria to your aquarium on a weekly basis.
  • Goldfish bowls can be considered cruel. Goldfish reach a minimum of 8" and can live 15 years or longer, and need a filtered tank. Goldfish are not a good beginner fish! For 1 goldfish, you need a 20gal tank, and you need to add 10gals on for each extra goldie!
  • When adding fish such as Bettas (betta splendens) do not keep them in a community, as schooling fish nip their fins, and they fight with cichlids and other labyrinth fish.
Good luck and Happy Fishkeeping !

Holiday Aquatics
www.holidayaquatics.com

Wednesday 20 February 2013

Essential Koi Fish Pond Supplies

Essential Supplies for a Koi Fish Pond

Do you plan to have a Koi pond? When getting into this kind of hobby or venture, it is not enough that you dig a hole in the ground and fill it water, plants and fish.

It is because like any other ecosystem, ponds also require proper care and maintenance to effectively keep a clean, safe and healthy environment for fish.
To help you properly sustain the life of your Koi collection and to help you become successful in keeping them, here are some of the basic essential Koi fish pond supplies that you should use. These pond supplies are proven beneficial in sustaining a healthy underwater ecosystem. These include:

Pond filters

When buying a pond filter, you should choose a system that is sufficient enough for the size of your water garden. Ideally, you should buy something that can hold at least ten percent of the total water in your pond. If you can get a larger filter, the better.

Pond pumps

A Pond pump works by circulating the water in your pond and by driving the pond filter. As much as possible, the power of the pump must be in relation to the size of your water garden. For smaller ponds, it is ideal to have a submersible pump, while a larger pond would need an external pump. To help you run a better water garden, it is advisable to install at least two pumps instead of a single large one. Do not go by the capacity of the pump indicated on it. You should also choose in accordance to the actual volume of your pond.

Pond UV sterilizer

pond UV light clarifier can kill the harmful bacteria to prevent the growth of algae. When buying this product, choose the one that has a size adequate for your pond size and flow rate.

Pond aeration system

Always remember that every living creature needs oxygen in order to survive, this is the same with Koi pond keeping. We strongly suggest installing an Air Pump As a general rule, a pond with less than six feet deep must use a surface aeration, while deeper ponds must use bottom aeration.

Test Kits

Testing your water is one of the essential activaties that you should maintain throughout, Heres a list of the basic parameters that you should be testing for

Testing for pHThe pH value denotes whether water is acidic, neutral or basic. If the water is too acidic or basic, this can quickly result in the death of fish.

Testing for NO2 Nitrite
Nitrite is produced by useful bacteria during the decomposition of ammonia waste secreted by the fish. Nitrite can adversely affect the health of your fish, even when it is present in low concentrations. Nitrite is decomposed by bacteria in the filter into nitrate that is vitually harmless to your fish.

Testing for NO3
Nitrate is produced by useful nitrifying bacteria in filters of aquariums or ponds during the decomposition of toxic waste (ammonia and nitrite). Nitrate is not toxic for the fish in your aquarium or pond but too high concentrations can inhibit reproduction and growth.

Testing for KH Total Alkalinity)
Alkalinity, also called carbonate hardness or temporary haedness is formed by binding of calcium with carbon dioxide. This binding is important for the buffering of the pH in the aquarium or pond.

Testing for GH (General Hardness)
The GH measures the total amount of minerals dissolved in water. All the dissolved minerals that determine the 'hardness' of the water are essential for the biological processes that occur in your aquarium or pond. If the hardness is too low, this inhibits these processes, and the pond will become stagnant.

Koi Fish Food

Feeding your fish is one of the most enjoyable parts of keeping a Koi Pond. To make sure your Koi are kept in tiptop condition then feeding a good quality feed is essential, don't scrimp on own label brands, instead opt for good quality brand that offers all the essential vitamins and minerals.

All the essentials above are good enough to start you going but there are lots of other advanced options that also can be considered - Bottom drains, Heaters etc etc which we can pick up at a later date.

All Supplies can be purchased at Holiday Aquatics to start you up in your Koi Pond adventure.

Good luck

Holiday Aquatics

Tuesday 19 February 2013

Beginners Guide to Aquascaping

Beginners Guide to Aquascaping


Keeping fish in an aquarium is a hobby that many people can enjoy. Owning a planted aquarium that is filled with a variety of different colours of fish and other water creatures can be an enjoyable experience for anyone. The look, the sounds, and the feel of having an aquarium in a room is like bringing a soothing part of nature indoors. One of the best parts of owning a fish tank is the process known as aquascaping.

Aquascaping Defined

For new owners of aquariums who may not be familiar with the term, aquascaping is the process of making a plain fish tank into a stunning and attractive piece of artwork. It’s a way of transforming the underwater world of the tank into a place of diverse life and beauty. People tend to go about this by adding an assortment of live fish, rocks, invertebrates, vegetation (aquarium plants) and a range of different decorations.
Aquascape by Takashi Amano
Aquascape by Hiroyuki Yamabi

The Main Goal of Aquascaping

This term gives aquarium owners free range to decorate the tank the way they want. The goal is to be creative and to craft an appealing and attractive underwater habitat while keeping the environment a place where the fish and other creatures can survive and thrive.

A World of Variety

A fish tank owner can take advantage of the broad range of different decoration pieces that are out there for their choosing. Whether hunting around at a pet store for that perfect rock or surfing on the internet for a favorite fish, the world of aquascaping has no limits. The variety is vast, and because there are so many different available animals and decorations for the perfect fish tank, everyone should be able to find what they are looking for to make their aquarium just the way they want it.

What Every Planted Tank Needs

For those who are new to aquascaping, learning how to go about it may seem a bit overwhelming or confusing. First, an aquarium should be able to support life. That means getting down to the basics and essentials needed to support life. Here are a few products that every tank owner will need in order for their aquarium to keep the environment healthy and alive:
  • Air Pump: An air pump is a device that is used in a fish tank in order to move air. Usually the average aquarium air pump will work to move the air by means of an electromagnet that vigorously vibrates a rubber diaphragm.
  • Lights: Artificial lighting in the fish tank is used in order to illuminate the tank itself. For some tanks, it’s necessary to have specialized lights that are high intensity in order to support the diverse aqua life.
  • Filters: All tanks require both mechanical and biological filtration in order to support a healthy environment and a safe habitat. This is where filters come in. Filters will typically be used to clean all of the water within the aquarium at least 4 times an hour. Larger fish tanks may require power filters.
  • Heaters: An aquarium that houses tropical fish should always have a heater to mimic the natural habitats of such wild life.

Another great aquascape
Another great aquascape
Remember that the fish are living creatures so they require specific essentials to survive. These necessary items can be found on the internet and at most pet stores.

Wow!
Wow!

Using the Essentials as Decorations

As a rule of thumb, it’s important to have the necessities that will keep fish and other organisms happy and healthy. These required items can also make attractive decorations when someone wishes to aquascape their tank. For example, using rocks as decorations can add certain style to the tank, particularly decorative rocks. These rocks will also provide the fish and other creatures a suitable hiding place. This is significant because most fish will require places to hide out. Also, using colored gravel or sand at the bottom of the tank is great for supporting any of the faux vegetation that might be used during aquascaping.
Hardscape
Hardscape

A Planted Tank and Aquascaping

 Having a planted aquarium during the process of aquascaping can be beautiful and attractive. Plants help to keep fish and other life healthy. While some people may have trouble keeping up on an aquatic garden, maintaining the lives of the plants should not be too much harder than maintaining the lives of the fish themselves. Both fish and plants will need clean water to stay healthy. Most of the necessities that plants require are already available in the water.
 

How to Get Started with Aquascaping

When aquascaping for the first time it’s helpful to follow these steps:
  • Necessities First: Always make sure that you have what you need to support life prior to adding anything else. Lights, filters, food, C02 Units and water pumps are always good starting points.
  • Start from the ground and move up: Using gravel at the bottom of the tank makes maintenance easier. There are lots of options. Gravel comes in different colors and textures. Aquascapers can also use sand, pebbles, or glass stones.
Do not use rocks or sand from a real beach as this can track in bacteria to the aquarium and be devastating to the life within the tank.
  • Pick out one large decoration: Though it’s not actually necessary, one tip is to choose one decoration that is larger than the rest. This can act as the focal point of the tank.
  • Find balance: Finding balance between the smaller decorations and the larger pieces will help to customize the look and feel of the aquarium.
  • Be creative: Have fun and be creative when picking out different ornaments, plants and other decorations to add to the tank. Try experimenting with a variety of different decorations. A backdrop in the tank and unique lighting can create an aquascape that is completely your own. A planted tank serves for one of the best methods when someone wishes to aquascape because of the natural beauty that is incorporated in each tank.
Aquascaping is a fun and enjoyable process that is relatively easy and a great activity for the whole family.
Most of the items discussed in this post are available at Holiday Aquatics 
 
Happy Aquascaping !
 
Holiday Aquatics

Monday 18 February 2013

The Aquarium Cycling process

Thinking of starting fishkeeping ?
Well the first lesson before you do anything is the Cycling process.

Get this correct and it will go a long way in getting you up and running with a healthy aquarium.........

The process known as cycling is a way of cultivating necessary bacteria in a new aquarium. The bacteria are necessary to decompose the waste products produced by fish and other inhabitants in the Aquarium.
An aquarium will always need a combination of suitable bacteria cultures and frequent Water Changes to stay clean and provide the fish with a good environment. If you add fish to an improperly cycled aquarium they can quickly fall ill or even die, since their waste products will pollute the water. Some fish are more tolerant to moderate levels of soluble waste than others, but no fish will appreciate an aquarium with high levels of these toxic compounds.

The basic cycling method is based on gradually adding fish to the aquarium during a period of several weeks. There are several ways of jump starting this method. If you already have an aquarium, or know anyone who has, you can use this mature bacteria colony to jumpstart a new one in your new aquarium. Gravel and boilogical Filter media is a rich source for bacteria. Keep in mind that even harmful bacteria can be included when you use gravel and filter media from another aquarium. It is therefore imperative to choose water from a healthy aquarium. Another way of jumpstarting the new bacteria colony is to buy water additives with small populations of suitable bacteria from a fish store.

A new cycling method known as ‘the fishless cycle’ has become very popular in recent years. During a fishless cycle, you do not relay on the fish to produce sufficient amounts of waste products to start up the bacteria culture. Instead, you add small amounts of ammonia to the water during the cycle. This simulates the normal cycling process since the bacteria will feed from the ammonia. Since you have no fish in the aquarium to act as guinea pigs, it will be even more important to carefully test the levels of ammonia, nitrite and nitrate.

Another cycling method is the ‘silent cycle’ where you fill the aquarium with densely planted aquatic Plants. Choose plants that are sturdy and grow fast. During a silent cycle, the levels of bacteria will typically be very low and the nitrogen will instead be consumed by the plants. This is still a comparatively unusual cycling method. According to some aquarists the plants will not only efficiently cycle the aquarium, but also decrease the spikes in nitrate and ammonia levels that are often seen during the more common cycling methods.

The reason behind the necessity of proper cycling is that the balance found in a natural ecosystem need some help from the aquarist in such an enclosed place as an aquarium. It is almost impossible to arrange a perfect balance in the aquarium, and frequent water changes will therefore be necessary. The aquarists will also have to make sure that processes that would occur on their own in the wild takes place in the aquarium as well. One of these processes is cycling.

The cycling process in the aquarium is closely linked to the so called nitrogen cycle. The nitrogen cycle is a process where waste products produced by the living creatures in the aquarium are turned into nitrate. In your aquarium, animals, fungi, and some types of bacteria will produce waste products. These waste products contain ammonia. Ammonia will also be produced when dead matter is decomposed, such as dead aquatic plants, left over food and shredded scales from fish.

These products can be converted by a type of bacteria belonging to the genus Nitrosomonas. Nitrosomonas are so called nitrifiers and will consume ammonia and excrete nitrite. Just like ammonia, nitrite is very toxic and high levels of nitrite will severely harm or even kill your fish. Fortunately, a well balanced eco-system will contain another type of bacteria – the genus Nitrospira. Nitrospira bacteria will convert nitrite into nitrate. Nitrate is not as toxic as nitrite and the inhabitants of the aquarium will tolerate nitrate better than nitrite and ammonia. This does not mean than you can allow the levels of nitrate to sky-rocket. You should always strive to keep the levels of ammonia, nitrite and nitrate low.

If you keep live plants in your aquarium, they will also help eliminating waste products since they can metabolize ammonia and nitrate. They will remove ammonia and nitrate from the water and include it in their biomass. This means that the removal will only be temporary; the plants will release the nitrogen compounds into the water again as old leaves die and become decomposed.

In an enclosed space such as an aquarium, only a part of the nitrogen cycle will take place. Nitrogen will always have to be added from outside the aquarium (which is essentially what you do when you feed your fish). In the other end of the cycle, nitrate will accumulate and must be removed by water changes. If the aquarium do not have enough bacteria to convert all the waste products into less harmful compounds, you will have to install some type of filter or perform very frequent water changes. A biological filter is a medium designed for nitrifying bacteria to colonise and thrive in. Active carbon filters can also help keeping the levels of soluble waste down, since activated carbon will absorb nitrogen as well as other toxic compounds.

As mentioned above, you can buy bacteria cultures from fish stores to jump start the cycle in your new aquarium. When you choose among different products, you should be aware of the fact that some of them might contain Nitrobacter bacteria instead of Nitrospira bacteria. Nitrobacter bacteria were earlier believed to be the main converters of nitrite into nitrate and it is true that Nitrobacter bacteria are capable of converting nitrite into nitrate. Careful studies performed in aquariums with a well established nitrogen cycle have however showed that the levels of Nitrobacter bacteria in such aquariums are close to undetectable. Nitrospira bacteria on the other hand were found in large amounts.

Ok, it's a long read but trust me it's worth it and the more you know the better it will be in the long run.

You can purchase cycling bacteria in our store eg Prodibio Startup or API Quick Start : www.holidayaquatics.com

Happy Fishkeeping

Holiday Aquatics
www.holidayaquatics.com

Testing our Pond Water and Why

We now have a great selection of Colombo Pond Test kits availabe at Holiday Aquatics.

http://www.holidayaquatics.com/koi-pond-test-kits-67-c.asp

Heres a run down of what we need to test and why, never under estimate the need to test your water :

AMMONIA – Ammonia is formed when fish waste and other organic debris (leaves, grass, dead fish, or frogs, etc) begin to decompose. This decomposition releases toxic Ammonia into the pond water. A test reading of Zero Ammonia is best but not always possible.

NITRITE – Nitrifying bacteria work on the Ammonia and break it down to Nitrite. Nitrite is also highly toxic to your pond fish and the ideal reading should again be Zero.

NITRATE – Eventually Nitrite is broken down further into Nitrate, which is less toxic to your pond fish although still bad enough in higher concentrations. Ideal reading would be zero.

pH – Testing the pH of your pond is critical according to many experts. The ideal pH reading in your pond is debatable by many but is often considered to be 7.0 – 7.5 although pH will vary throughout the day.

KH – Carbonate Hardness = Total Alkalinity which is different than pH. Carbonate Hardness is the ability of the pond water to stabilize the pH in the system. According to Dave Jones, owner of The Pond Professional in Woodstock GA, KH should be at least 100 PPM. Ideal KH readings are between 100-200 PPM.

PHOSPHATES – Phosphates are usually introduced into a pond thru fish waste and are a nutrient that algae require to flourish. Algae, like other plants, require many nutrients to grow so the presence of Phosphates alone does not ensure an algae problem is imminent. A reading of Zero PPM is ideal although many ponds can have much higher concentrations with no algae issues present.

If your Water parameters are in acceptable levels it will go a long way in producing Healthy and Happy fish.

Holiday Aquatics
www.holidayaquatics.com

Saturday 9 February 2013

Hikari Marine S Review

Hikari Marine S Review :

Well thought i might give this product a little try in our Marine aquarium to see what the verdict is.

I'm always a little wary at first adding new foods into the tank as i know that the fish will just swim up and just turn their nose up, well thats what usually happens when trying out another food than the fish are used to.

I was quite surprised that in fact this wasn't the case and straight away the fish were going crazy for this stuff ! Wow they just wanted more and more and even the corals loved it, the sun coral came straight out and the favia went into quick feeding mode after a few pellets dropped onto the flesh.

Good food, however i would recommend keeping the food pinched under water for about 10 seconds before letting go, this way the is soft enough to be flown around the tank a little otherwise i found it sink quite quick getting lost into the rocks, which wasn't too bad as the wrasse soon fed on all the pellets that dropped within the rocks.

This was in fact the first time I've used pellets I've always substituted the frozen foods with flake, but i was quite impressed.

Would i come of using flake ??? mmm not sure just yet but i will definitely be adding this food into my feeding program. End of the day it's better to feed a mix of foods rather than just one that way it gives extra nutrition to your fish and corals that just one food may not be able to give you.

Would i recommend, yep sure would i've not been using it long enough to notice any difference in colours, but with the quick feeding response i get from both fish and corals then it's definitely a winner.

Happy Fishkeeping

Holiday Aquatics
www.holidayaquatics.com

Wednesday 6 February 2013

Google Shopping now charging

Well we've had our items on Google shopping for a bit now, but last week we were informed that it will now no longer be free... yep good while it lasted !

Now they have moved to a pay per click model, well knowbody new what this would mean, but i've never been a fan of pay per click as anybody can click even your competitors with no intention of purchasing but instead killing off smaller businesses.

Well it was true, we set a small budget of only 10p a click and today we had the most clicks we have ever had from Google shopping which cleared our budget in hours, with zero sales !

unfortunatly for us Google Shopping is not for us instead we will have to work harder to get our site on the top pages of Google or more advertising in Forums.

Sad times for small business, but we will keep our head high at Holiday Aquatics and continue.

Whats your thoughts ? are Google getting too greedy ?

Holiday Aquatics
www.holidayaquatics.com

Tuesday 5 February 2013

Practical Fishkeeping forum

Did we tell you that we have our own spot on the practical fishkeeping forum ?

Well we've been going for a month now with our own section on the practical fishkeeping forum to drum up awareness of Holiday Aquatics and to give a little insight into our fishkeeping knowledge.

Never been a massive fan of forums, not sure why, but things seem to be going ok at the moment, plenty of Hits, not as many purchases yet but it's still early days so for now we will stay where we are.

You can find us here :http://forum.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk/forumdisplay.php?f=364

So how many of you go on the Practical fishkeeping forum or purchase Practical fish keeping magazine ?

Happy Fishkeeping !

Holiday Aquatics
www.holidayaquatics.com

Sunday 3 February 2013

TMC Tropic Marin Salt

New product added today : TMC Tropic Marin Salt available in various sizes.

This Marine salt is fantastic salt, tried and tested by millions even here at Holiday Aquatics !

This is the low down :

Tropic Marin sea salt is manufactured from pharmaceutically pure salts and is based upon the most recent scientific analysis of the tropical oceans. It is free from synthetic additives and contains no nitrates, phosphates or silicates. Tropic Marin Sea Salt turns fresh water into salt water, which is practically indistinguishable from natural seawater.

Tropic Marin Sea Salt contains all 70 trace elements in the natural concentrations of the ocean. No more, no less. Because of the unique application of the mixed salt crystals, the trace elements remain completely usable in the water. This method prevents the otherwise frequent precipitation of the trace elements and provides the organisms with the elements without chelates and in a biological form, which is directly usable by them. Only Tropic Marin has this unique «mixed crystal» technology.  

Key Benefits
- True to Nature
- Pharmaceutical Ingredients
   to insure high purity
- Scientific Formula
- Contains all 70 Trace Elements
- Special Hydrates of Salt
- Precision of Manufacturing


So if you've not given this Salt a go then why not try and see the results for yourself

Holiday Aquatics
www.holidayaquatics.com

Saturday 2 February 2013

Price Review on Hikari and Saki Hikari Koi

As the sun is shinning we're looking forward to the warmer weather when we all can get out and start feeding up our Koi and doing our pond maintenance all ready for the Summer months when you can sit out and enjoy your pride and joy !

We'll for us we thought we would do a bit of a price review of all our Hikari and Saki Hikari Koi Foods and the good news is that 90% were reduced by around 10% some even by 20%.

Were now ahead of our competition on price which is great news for you all !

We currently have a few offers on Saki Hikari Multi Season which is well worth getting ready for when you Koi start searching for food.

Saki Hikari is an amazing food and is perfect for feeding you Koi through Colder and Warmer waters.

If you have never tried Saki Hikari then try it, trust me it does make a difference to you koi, Health colour and most of all has a limited impact on Water quality if fed correctly.

You can find oue Hikari range here :
http://www.holidayaquatics.com/koi-pond-food---saki-hikari-16-c.asp

You can find Hikari Koi Range here :
http://www.holidayaquatics.com/koi-pond-food---hikari-29-c.asp

Happy Fishkeeping.

Holiday Aquatics
www.holidayaquatics.com