Thursday 28 March 2013

Evolution Aqua Eazy Pod Pond Filter

Evolution Aqua Eazy Pod Pond Filter

Now available at Holiday Aquatics !

We have a great selection of Evolution Aqua Eazy pod filter kits to suite any type of pond.

The Evolution Aqua EazyPod is the complete mechanical and biological pond filter system for garden ponds up to 20,000 litres or Koi ponds up to 10,000 litres. The EazyPod has been modified for 2012. The inlet on the new EazyPod features a welded 1½” Slide Valve with 1½” hosetail, making pump fed installation even easier. The waste on the EazyPod has also been made simpler with the introduction of a 1½” Slide Valve.
  Designed and created due to unprecedented demand
  Very eazy to install and operate
  Utilising proven Nexus Eazy cleaning system combined      with Kaldnes K3
  Gives incredibly 'GIN clear' water
  Quick and eazy cleaning cycle with no wet
     or dirty hands - JUST TURN AIR VALVE
  Complete with adjustable rubber connectors
  Small filter - only 23 inches tall AND WIDE (585mm)
  Works equally well pump or gravity fed
ALSO
  Ideal as a complete filter on a quarantine system
ALSO
  As A pre-filter, polisher or on a skimmer
     line, a great all rounder!
SpecificationEazy Pod
Max Feed Rate100g per day
Max Flow Rate10,000 litres/hr
2,200 UK gallons/hr
2,640 US gallons/hr
Kaldnes media30 litres
Max pond size
for ornamental fish
20,000 litres
4,400 UK gallons
5,333 US gallons
RecommendedAirpump 70
Max pond size for koi10,000 litres
2,200 UK gallons
2,666 US gallons

Holiday Aquatics
www.holidayaquatics.com

Tuesday 26 March 2013

Saki Hikari Multi Mix Koi Food

Saki Hikari Multi mix Koi Food now available at Holiday Aquatics

We have now put together a selection of Saki Hikari Koi Fish Foods to create an all season food mix for your Koi.

Don't let your Koi get bored of the same food, just like us fish need a variaty of foods to keep in good health and great condition.

By mixing foods your Koi has more chance of receiving all the vitamins and minarels they need throughout the year.

Our selection contains 4 x 2kg bags :

1 x 2kg Saki Hikari Balance
1 x 2kg Saki Hikari Colour Enhancer
1 x 2kg Saki Hikari Multi Season
1 x 2kg Saki Hikari Growth Diet
Check our site for more details, available in Medium and Small pellets.

Happy Koi Feeding

Holiday Aquatics

Monday 25 March 2013

Setting up a Lake Malawi Cichlid Tank

Setting up a Lake Malawi Cichlid Tank

Setting up your cichlid tank

Malawian cichlids have three general living preferences: rocky, sandy or mid-water. Use smooth rocks and pile them up to form caves and hideaways for them to take refuge in. As most Cichlids are teritorial it's wise to create as many caves and hideaways as possible.
Make sure all rockwork is secure and start building the rockwork from the base of the tank rather than from the substrate.
Rockwork can be bonded together using aquarium safe epoxy or aquarium glue.
Your Substrate should just cover the bottom of your tank as some cichlids like to dig and they will make piles of sand all along the bottom of the tank so having too much Sand will make for all kinds of unsightly heaps.



Lake Malawi Cichlid Temperature

Like most Tropical Fish Cichlids are very hardy but they do not do well if there are great fluctuations in temperature. Lake Malawi has water temperatures that vary from 70 to 80 degrees so a heater is essential Smaller tanks can go with a single heater, whereas larger tanks should use two. Follow the rule of 3 watts per gallon and don't forget to get an accurate thermometer and place the thermometer away from the heater.

Cichlid Filtration

As Cichlid tanks work better with a good volume of fish you will need to have excellent filtration. In fact, we can't stress this enough.
A canister filter is highly recommended. Make sure the canister filter can cope with your tank size, infact with a cichlid tank slightly oversizing will cover you for that extra waste the fish will produce and it will add extra water volume. Make sure you clean the canister filter regularly and always clean sponges using old aquarium water so as not to kill of the beneficial bacteria.

African Cichlid Lighting

Most Malawian cichlids live deep in the lake so light is minimul, so to try and keep to their natural habitat don't over do it with the lighting. One bulb is recommended or one LED unit depending on tank size. If you want to really make the blue color in these fish stand out then you need to add a blue actinic bulb.

As like all other fish tanks you want to keep a good living balance so attach your lights to a timer, so lights come on and of around the same time everyday. Duration of lighting is your preferance but i would say to go for around 7 to 8 hours of light.

Lake Malawi Cichlid Water Chemistry

The pH in Lake Malawi ranges from 7.8 to 8.5 which is moderately high.
As we are wanting to try and re-creatie the natural habitat you should aim for this pH level. Invest in a pH test kit to aid in testing your tank water and the water you will add on a regular basis through water changes. You can add pH adjusters to your water to alter the ph up or down, but make sure you adjust pH slowy in your tank otherwise the fish will suffer pH shock.

Water hardness is important to consider as well. The kH of Lake Malawi is between 12 and 13. Again you may need to measure the hardness of your water using a kH test kit. If your kH is low you will need to raise the hardness. A thin layer of crushed coral sand is a great way to keep the water on the alkaline side. It will continually leach out minerals into the water or you can add buffering agents

Cichlid Feeding

Like all fish keeping you will want to make sure you feed your fish the best possible diet with plenty of vitamins and minerals. Feeding a high quality diet will go a long way in keeping your fish happy and healthy. Try mixing foods so your fish gets a good varied diet.


Cichlid Water Changes


The single most important thing to do with an aquarium is to do regular water changes. Water changes can be done weekly or bi-weekly. If you overcrowd your tank with cichlids then it is recommended that you do around a 40% to 50% water change weekly otherwise you can keep to around 10% - 15% a week. Add conditioner to your new water to dissipate chlorine and heavy metals from the water.
 Use a siphon to remove all the feces at the bottom of the aquarium. It is also good to clean your filter pads at this time. If they are old replace them with new ones, but if they are still newer then dip them into the old water that has been removed from the tank. This way the nitrifying bacteria will not be harmed and put the original filter pad back into the filter.

Try and make your new water as close to the tank parameters as possible as if doing big water changes with incorrect water your parameters will change too quickly stressing your fish.
Never put in cold water!

Good luck and make sure all rockwork is secure !

Happy Fishkeeping

Holiday Aquatics
www.holidayaquatics.com

Friday 22 March 2013

Saki Hikari wins Koi food of the year 2012

Saki Hikari Wins Koi food of the Year 2012

Saki Hikari. The ‘food of champions’ is definitely the number one hobbyists’ choice! Saki Hikari is the most popular koi food in Japan and is used by breeders throughout the world. It’s not surprising then that you have also made it your top choice!

Saki Hikari Koi food of the Year

Saki Hikari full range of Koi foods is now available at Holiday Aquatics.

Happy Koi Keeping
Holiday Aquatics
www.holidayaquatics.com

Wednesday 20 March 2013

Aquarium Heater Guide

Aquarium heater guide

Most pet Tropical fish and Marine fish come from tropical regions of the globe, where the water temperature is around 75 degrees Fahrenheit or higher. 

Maintaining a consistently warm water temperature for your fish is essential to their well-being.
You can maintain an ideal temperature in your tank by adjusting the thermostat on your aquarium heater

It’s a good idea to put a separate thermometer (independent from the heater) in your tank so you can monitor water temperature on an ongoing basis and make adjustments in your thermostat, since environmental conditions in and around your aquarium are always changing.

Make sure you place your thermometer away from the heater, we prefer to have the thermometer at the other end of the tank that way you get a true reading rather than a possible inflated readings due to the thermometer being too close to the heater.

Thermometers come in varied types, we would suggest using a digital thermometer for accuracy.

A wide variety of heaters are available at Holiday Aquatics, made by Tetra, TMC, Juwell and Superfish.

The size of your heater should match the size of  your tank.

Generally, you’ll want to provide at least 3 watts of heater power -- and preferably 5 watts -- for every gallon of tank capacity.

This formula provides us with the following general recommendations:

10 gallon tank = 50 watt heater
20 gallon tank = 100 watt heater  
30 gallon tank = 150 watt heater
40 gallon tank = 200 watt heater

For tanks that are 50 gallons or smaller, it’s usually best to use one heater.  In tanks with more than a 50-gallon capacity, you should reach the recommended wattage by using two smaller heaters rather than one larger model.

For example, one 200 watt heater and one 100 watt heater instead of a single 300-watt unit, this way you avoid the issue of overheating if theres an issue with the thermastate and also you have a backup if one heater should fail.

Your aquarium heater should be positioned in an area where there is lots of water movement to ensure that heat is circulated adequately throughout the tank.

For safety, always unplug a heater and allow it to sit in the tank for 10-15 minutes to cool down before it is handled.  A submersible unit should never be kept above the water surface as this could shatter the heater. The heater should be unplugged before water is removed from your tank during water changes. This will protect against the hazards that can arise when an active water heater is exposed to air.  You should also inspect your heater on a regular basis to make sure there are no cracks in its glass tubing. 

We also advise to always have a backup heater handy, just incase you do get a failed heater as it's suprising how quickly water tempratures can drop, especially through the winter months.

If your unsure which heater you should use then just contact us and we will guide you in the right direction.

Happy Fishkeeping

Holiday Aquatics

Monday 18 March 2013

Colombo Bactuur Filter Start

Colombo Bactuur Filter Start

It's nearly spring and it's time to start thinking about kicking your Pond filter back up, well why not try the new Colombo Bactuur Filter start.

Colombo Filter start is a bacteria starter for new and existing ponds. In the spring and after maintenance the biological equilibrium needs to be re-established.

The living bacteria in Filter Start will help to get the filter working as soon as possible.

1 litre is sufficient for 5.000 litres of water.


Available in 3 sizes 500ml, 1000ml and 2500ml 

Happy Fishkeeping

Holiday Aquatics

Price Matching now available

Price Matching now available

Well we are that confident with our prices we are now offering a price matching service, so if you see it cheaper elsewhere then let us know and we will price match. 

**Note there is some terms and conditions to the price matching so check the website for full details before contacting us.

Happy Fishkeeping

Holiday Aquatics 

www.holidayaquatics.com

 


Tuesday 5 March 2013

Saki Hikari Koi Fish Food

Saki Hikari Koi Food - The food of Champions

It's amazing to think how much goes into food for fish, the time the effort the research just to produce a great quality food for your Koi.
Why not i say some Koi cost more than a Cat or a Dog, in fact some cost more than a CAR ! so why would you then feed your fish a poor diet.

Saki Hikari offer an amazing range of foods to get the best out of your Koi throughout all the seasons and its good to know the better the quality of food the less waste resulting in improved water quality. If your looking to produce amazing quality Koi for your own benefit or for showing then Saki Hikari should be your number one choice.

Heres what Hikari say about their product :

Because,the quality and performance of Saki-Hikari® is easily recognized with continued feeding. Some of the many benefits include:
  1. Rapid nutrient utilization.
  2. Excellent feed efficiency .
  3. The good bacteria create beneficial digestive enzymes thereby improving the digestive capacity of the koi.
  4. The good bacteria utilize the food source required by the bad bacteria therefore reducing the number of bad bacteria. Additional vitamins & minerals your fish can utilize to support a healthy immune system.
  5. Bacterial decomposition of expelled waste.
  6. Reduced sludge in filter media leading to reduced cleaning and maintenance 
  7. Improved overall water quality and a healthy environment for the fish.
  • Developed on the back of decades of extensive research into the breeding, eating habits and natural habitats of Koi.
  • Created using only the finest quality and carefully selected ingredients
  • A Lab-verified formula based on frequent and ongoing feeding trials that confirm its effectiveness
  • Manufactured using strict quality control measures and extensive traceability procedures.

  • To consistently deliver the highest quality we can offer, backed by our ongoing study of ingredients, nutritional requirements, production technology, packaging innovation and strict quality control measures, it is important that you should only buy our products in their original Hikari® package.
    Every product we produce is packed in a clean, dedicated packing facility to avoid any contamination in packages that maintain product quality and freshness.
    Saki Hikari does come at a price to your regular Koi food but again theres so much research and know how gone into Saki Hikari that this fish food offers way beyond any other Koi foods on the market today.

    Below is a the process of the Probiotic bacteria thats added to all Saki Hikari Foods


    Saki Hikari

    So if you've never tried Saki Hikari why not give it a try and see the difference to your Koi and water quality.

    Holiday Aquatics offer the full range of Saki Hikari Foods, including Balance, Multi Season, Growth and Colour enhancer all at competative prices, see our site for details.

    Happy Fish Keeping

    Holiday Aquatics

    Blanket Weed prevention and control

    Blanket Weed Prevention and Control

    Blanket weed is all pond keepers nightmare !

    Theres nothing frustrating than spending hours and hundreds of pounds to create an amazing pond only to be bogged down by Blanket Weed.

    Left to establish Blanket Weed can soon smother every surface you have even covering the whole surface of the pond, leaving your pond drab and very un-attractive.

    The good news is Blanket Weed is controllable and you can easily have a successful summer without seeing any blanket weed at all.
    Your main fight against Blanket Weed is to understand why it grows and what is it using to grow.

    Nutrients Blanket Weed Require to Grow

    It's simpler than you think ... Blanket weed is an algae and algae are plants (and mainly green at that) and this means they love nitrogen, phosphorous and light. In pond water these chemical elements show up as NITRATES,PHOSPHATES and the Sun.

    Nitrates and Phosphates are produced through the nitrification proccess and the addition of foods (Fish waste).

    Remove one of these three elements and your sorted thats why come the winter months Blanket Weed dies off, but thats no good we don't want to get rid of the light through the summer, however we can help a little.

    Sunlight

    Theres nothing much we can do about sunlight and why would we want to hide our pond away in a completetly shaded area.
    One thing we can do however is create a little area of shade, this will go down well in helping Blanket Weed control and also gives your fish a little area of shade, however don't use trees as shade, the roots of the tree could cause damage to your pond and the leaves falling into your pond will only add unwanted nutriants.

    UV Filters / sterilisers

    UV Filters go alongway in killing off algae spores before they can get a hold, if you havn't got one then get one these are a must have addition. Make sure the UV filter is sufficiant for your pond size. My advice always go a little bigger. A UV steriliser will also go alongway in helping with disease control.

    Nitrate and Phosphates

    Ok so you have a little shaded spot, you run a UV steriliser, now it's time to reduce your Nitrates and Phosphates. Easy said than done and this will take time but heres the first steps :

    If you already have Blanket Weed then remove it and keep upto clearing it out of your pond, don't let it get a hold.

    Test your Nitrates and Phosphates, this will give you a starting point to see that what you are doing is helping, however if you already have bad Blanket Weed it's possible these maybe low, don't be fooled the Blanket weed is using the Nitrates and Phosphates.

    Clean you filter

    Yes this can be a big bit of work but if you havn't cleaned it in a long time then it needs doing. remove all media and sponges and rinse in pond water, this also goes down as a water change for your pond. Use filtered water to top your pond back up, if possible use a nitrate and phoshpate media to remove these elements before adding the water to your pond.

    If required replace your sponges. If your Sponge is your main media for bacteria then you will need to cut your sponge and replace with the new sponge in sections over a month or more, otherwise you will crash your pond filteration system.

    Clean your pond.

    Clean the bottom and the walls of your pond. Your pond bottom should be left empty, don't use gravel at the bottom of your pond as this will only add to your issue. However if you do want pebbles or stones then these need removing so you can get to the bottom of your pond. Rinse the stones / pebbles and put them back, if they have Blanket Weed on already then scrub the weed off.

    After a week test your Nitrates and Phosphates again, have they reduced ?

    Check stocking levels of your pond are you within the correct parameters ? overstocking will not help in reducing your Nitrate and Phosphate levels.

    It's never easy in reducing your Nitrates and Phosphates but stick with it. Not many fishkeepers know that Phosphates and Nitrates go hand in hand and if one is higher then the other it can be difficult to bring one of them down, if they are both around the same level you will probably find it easier to bring down.

    Plants

    Plants are great at sucking up nitrates and phosphates as we know get some desirable pond plants in your pond, these will go along way in starving the Blanket weed of the nutriants it requires. Do some reading on plants faster growing plants will need more nutriants so these are a good starting point.

    Chemical additives

    Sometimes no matter what we do Blanket Weed will just not go using the natural methods above. So now it's time to add some additives to help.
    There are alot of Blanket Weed controllers around. Do read up before adding any chemical to your pond and always stick to the manufacturers instructions.

    Why not try our range, we have the Colombo Algisin which works wonders.

    Remember prevention is better than the cure so try and keep upto your pond cleaning regime always do regular testing of your Nitrates and Phosphates before they peak.

    I will go into detail of how we used or Marine Reef keeping skills to our Pond to get zero nitrates and phosphates in another post.

    Good luck and Happy Fishkeeping !

    Holiday Aquatics
    www.holidayaquatics.com